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Archive for December, 2009
Woolly Pockets Living Wall
Dec 31st

This installation consists of 7 rows by 8 columns of Wallys (14 x Wally Threes lined brown + 14 Wally Ones lined brown) filled with sub-tropicals including ferns, mosses, and philodendrons. From Splendid's Flagship store in Beverly Hills
Overview
What is a Woolly Pocket?
Woolly Pockets are flexible, breathable, and modular gardening containers. You can use Woolly Pockets both indoors and out; they have built-in moisture barriers to help protect furniture, and they’re equally at home outside in the elements. They’re perfect for creating urban gardens where you have space to garden but no land to garden in. Woolly Pockets are lightweight and can be folded flat, which makes them very easy to use, move, and store just about anywhere. Just hang, plant, and water!
What are the benefits of this system?
The Woolly Pocket Vertical Gardening System is unique because it’s easy to install, completely modular, and very easy to maintain.
Why are Woolly Pockets breathable?
There are two primary benefits to container gardening in breathable containers. First, it allows the soil to aerate naturally, which reduces the need to drain the containers and also helps to conserve water. Second, when the roots sense air they do something called air pruning. This is the natural process of stopping their own growth when they sense they’ve reached the limits of their space. This keeps the roots healthy and stops plants from becoming root-bound by growing in continuing circles as they do in non-breathable containers such as clay pots. Woolly pockets are breathable.
What are Woolly Pockets made of?
Woolly Pockets have two main components: the breathable felt and the built-in moisture barrier. The breathable portion is made of 100% recycled plastic bottles that have been industrially felted. The moisture barrier is made according to military standards for impermeability from 60% recycled plastic bottles. We stitch each pocket together by hand with a double lock stitch and strong, UV-resistant nylon thread.
What kind of plants should I grow in my Pockets?
Nearly any container plant should be able to grow in Woolly Pockets. Pick plants that are the right size for their new Pocket home. You can also grow some herbs, vegetables and fruits in your living wall!
How should I plant Woolly Pockets?
Planting Instructions
In general, Woolly Pockets can be planted, watered and maintained just like any traditional gardening container. However, there are methods that are specifically intended to increase plant health and lower long-term maintenance needs. See video below:
What you’ll need:
- A wall or other vertical surface
- Woolly Wallys + wall anchors, one for each Woolly Wally grommet
- An electric drill, screwdriver, tape measure, level
- Blue masking tape and a pen
- Quality soil
- Garden shovel or pail
- Plants!
Steps to install:
- Using your level and measuring tape, place one piece of blue tape vertically down the center of the wall where you want to hang your Pockets.
- Using your level and measuring tape, place a piece of blue tape horizontally along the wall where you’ll be drilling the holes to hang the Woolly Wally grommets. When hanging multiple rows space them 13″ on center vertically so that Wallys overlap a little to hide the wall behind them.
- Using your measuring tape, mark the blue tape where the holes should be drilled and pre-drill each hole.
- Remove the blue tape and install the wall anchors into the pre-drilled holes.
- Hang your Woolly Wallys using the screws and washers that came with them. When you hang multiple Pockets, save the anchors that will hang two Pockets for last so you can double them up.
- Fill each Pocket halfway with soil. Add your plants and top each pocket off with more soil, as necessary.
- Watering Woolly Wally Systems
- You should only use filtered water for watering your Woolly Wally System in order to maintain the natural PH balance of the soil. Carefully water each Pocket with about 5% water to soil volume. We like to water the soil closest to the wall to prevent water from running out the front. The wall is protected thanks to the impermeable moisture barrier in each Woolly Wally. Just to be safe, check your Pockets after watering. If it’s wet, you’re probably over watering. But don’t worry, just pat Woolly Wally dry with a towel and use less water next time.
Make sure there’s more soil along the sides than in the center. It’s also helpful to make wells around your plants to concentrate the water over the plants’ root balls. Optimizing the distribution of the soil will help minimize the amount that your Pockets sweat. Sweating is when water begins to pass through the breathable sides of your Woolly Pockets. Sweating doesn’t harm plants, although it might harm your furniture, but it does mean that you should cut down on the amount of water you’re giving your plants or that you should check the soil to see if it should be loosened to allow more water to reach the root ball and to be absorbed.
What is the best soil to use?
Choosing a suitable growing medium for your plants is key to your gardening success. The important thing to remember when choosing potting soil is that is should provide water retention, drainage, and nutrition. Most quality brands of all-purpose potting soil provide all of these things. You can ask at your local garden center/nursery about specific brands in your area. Maximum soil you’d want to put in is .40 cubic feet per individual pocket
How should I maintain this Living Wall?
How much and what kind of water should I use?
The amount of water a plant needs depends on what type of plant and what sort of climate it’s growing in. You’ll typically want to water at a max of 3 cups per individual pocket.
If Woolly Pockets moisten on the outside after watering, try watering half as much the next time. If moisture persists, be sure the soil you’re using is a high-quality potting soil that stays loose and holds water.
Use filtered water in order to maintain the natural PH balance of the soil. If you can only use unfiltered water, you’ll want to take your Woolly Pocket outside once a year to flush it. This means thoroughly soaking it until water runs out the sides. Flushing your Pocket won’t harm your Pocket or your plant, in fact it will help it. Make sure you let it dry in the sun before bringing it inside to prevent the damp Woolly Pocket from damaging your floors or furniture. When you bring it back inside, don’t forget to replace the nutrients lost with fertilizer.
Can I use drip irrigation for watering?
Using a regular, timed watering helps insure a healthy garden. Any store bought drip irrigation system will work as well, if not better, in Woolly Pockets than in other gardening containers. We suggest using individually adjustable drip irrigation heads so that each plant gets its own adjustable water source. You’ll want to place the drip irrigation heads along the back inside wall of the pocket. See the drip irrigation video below:
Matt’s Do it yourself suggestions on materials and plants
Dec 30th
Matt from http://diygreenwalls.blogspot.com/ has built a green wall in his home in NY and provided lots of details on how he did it.
Greenwall Building Instructions
The frame is made out of 1″ aluminum stock that looks like a trellis/lattice work. Sheets of expanded PVC were attached using rust proof screws. Then 2 layers of moisture retention mat is stapled on with rust proof staples. A submersible pump on a timer pumps water up to a tube running under the felt across the top of the wall.
Matt just used one tube at the top, but he suggests having a tube for every 8-10 vertical feet. He used regular flexible clear hose he bought from his local hardware store and then drilled holes in it. (However, if you use an opaque tube it helps prevent bacteria growth, so that may be something to consider when you’re building your wall) At one point the pump’s filter slipped and sucked up some leaves. That made the drilled holes in the tubing clog. Matt says that emitters might have made that process easier and they can control flow which was an issue at first with his tube and he had to balance pressure and gravity.
There is a basin at the bottom of the wall built from expanded 3/4″ PVC.
He planted 3.5 inch plants in slits 5″ wide separated horizontally by 2″ gaps. The rows were 4″ apart vertically and the plants are staggered every other row. He cut the slits in the first layer of felt (only the first layer gets cut), took the plant out of the small plastic pot, stuffed it in the slit, and then stapled around it to form a tight little pocket (about 4-5 staples). You don’t want too many staples in order to avoid inhibiting root growth.
Living Wall Materials
Frame:
1″ Aluminum Square Stock available at a local hardware store
Cheaper Eco Alternative
FSC Cedar Strips 1″x3″s Cheaper than aluminum and far better for the environment. I’d build my next wall with these.
Surface:
Sintra Expanded PVC Sheets 6mm You really need 10mm, but they didn’t have it so Matt bought 2 6mm ones.
Cheaper Eco Alternative
Corrugated Polyethylene Plastic Sheets 10mm
These are untested, but Matt’s thinking these would work even better.
Fabric:
Moisture Retention Mat MRM14 (100% recycled polyester and polypropylene)
Misc:
Rust Proof Staples 12mm (you may need to tailor the length depending on the thickness of your surface material) These are rust proof not rust resistant. There is no iron in them so they can never rust. Expensive but worth it.
Submersible Pond Pump You’ll need to adjust the pump to the size and height of your wall. This one is a guideline. Matt bought his at a pet store and they fitted the pump with adapters so he could connect it to polyethylene tubing from his local hardware store.
Vertical Garden Plants
Each wall can be setup to provide varying amount of light, water, and nutrients. Patrick Blanc has used thousands of different types of plants on his walls. In theory almost any type of plant can work.
Each wall builder will need to decide how much light, water, and nutrients they want to provide. Here’s a brief overview of Matt’s wall.
Light
Matt has decent light in the room but decided to add some supplemental light from compact fluorescent bulbs. The lights used are just regular lights, not special ‘grow lights’. Matt thinks his plants would survive with out the additional light but the extra light can only help and it makes the wall look nicer. Powerful artificial grow lights are available if you want to grow high light demanding plants. Typically if you’re growing edibles you’ll need lots of light, but regular indoor plants do not need as much light.
Water
Matt waters his wall 4x a day for 10 minutes a day (by drip tube on a timer).
Nutrients
The best way to determine how much nutrients to give the plants is to watch them. Matt has added fertilizer to his wall once in the time I have had it and doesn’t see the need to add more. Matt’s not looking for growth, just for maintenance. There is soil around the root ball of each plant and as the water trickles down the wall it picks up nutrients from the soil in each plant. He’s not adding more fertilzer now because he doesn’t see the need… although he may add more in the future.
In a massive greenwall like Patrick Blanc’s, there are different ecosystems in the wall (the tops of the outdoor living walls get more sun and dry out faster and the the plants at the bottom get more shade and stay wetter) For a medium to small greenwall, the plants are all going to be in the same ecosystem and so you’ll want to pick plants that have similar light, watering and fertilizing requirements.
Here’s a partial list of plants Matt used on his wall listed in order of quantity.












